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MASTERING

Reminder: we work on this song I wrote: Life


(mp3 file)

Quick definition

We should say "pre-mastering" instead of "Mastering", but everyone says "Mastering", so I'll do the same.

Theoretically, the mastering is the process that results in a "Master", which is the final version of a recording before it's transfered to a physical medium (vinyl, cassette, CD, etc.), while controlling that all established norms are respected for the type of medium. Therefore, it's the last creative process as well as the last purely technical process of a recording.

But most of the time, when someone speaks about mastering, it's merely the last creative step of a musical work, the one that comes right after mixing and before broadcasting it to the public, whether that public be yourself and your family, or millions of people!

On this page

Before anything else... | What do I need? | Multiband compressor | Limiter | Conclusion

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Before anything else...

Before you start mastering anything, make sure you follow these rules:

- The mix must be completed. Don't start the mastering process unless you are happy with your mixing and there is nothing more to do in that area. Because mixing is the art of polishing each instrument individually to get a consistent whole, while mastering is the art of polishing a whole tune as a single entity. You don't deal with various parts anymore, you deal with the whole mix altogether. Which implies it must be finished.

- In order to be objective once the mix is over, I advise you to wait one day or two before starting the mastering. As the hearing memory is rather short, you will rediscover your work with a fresh ear if you wait that long.

- During the mastering process, it's better to work with studio monitors rather than with a headset, even more so than for the mix. But as always, it's better to work with a very good pair of headphones than with mediocre monitors. If you work with headphones, be aware that your perception of stereo sounds, as well as the balance of lows and highs are different with headphones. But if you know your headphones well, if you use reference songs that you know as well, you will be able to fix any possible mistakes by yourself.

- In professional studios, the mastering engineer is not the same as the mixing engineer. That gives him a fresh and neutral look over the song. Mastering monitors are also particularly accurate and placed in a well-studied room, sound-wise.
In a home studio, you will most probably mix and master yourself, with the same monitors and/or headphones (and not necessarily the best ones), in an untreated room of your appartment or house, with daily life sounds around you (cars in the street, noisy neighbors, family members in the next room...). And you're going to have to deal with it!

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What do I need?

Not much, actually, but here are the essentials, sufficient for most home-studio owners:
- A multiband compressor
- A limiter

As an option, you may also use the following gear/plugins:
- An equalizer. If your mix is good, you probably don't need to balance frequencies when mastering, but a few (very few!) corrections might be necessary here and there.
- A reference song. To help you reach your goal, keep a song you like within reach (use a song in the same style as the song you're working on, don't refer to Mozart if you're mastering a Death Metal song...). Your aim will be to obtain a sound similar to that song.

Other tools may help you give your song the atmosphere you're looking for:
- Stereo enhancement plugins
- Spectrum analyser plugins that will analyse your song and compare it to your reference song
- Plugins that will let you know about the dynamics of the song, so you don't get a sound that is too compressed and crushed. Like TT Dynamic Range Meter available on this page.

Personally, I only use a multiband compressor and a limiter. The first one helps me to highlight some frequency ranges to shape and enhance the sound. The difference with and without a multiband compressor is staggering.
The limiter will boost the perceived sound volume and make the song more energetic. But don't overdo it or you might lose some dynamics and make your song too aggressive and tiring to listen to.

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MULTIBAND COMPRESSOR

To be clear, on the Master bus, the bus towards which all other main buses converge (guitars, bass, vocals, synths, drums), I put a multiband compressor plugin on top.

Mise à part cette caractéristique, cela reste un compresseur, avec les réglages suivants :

A multiband compressor will apply different compression settings on frequency ranges defined by the user. For example, you may want to compress a lot the low frequencies, leave the mediums untouched, and slightly compresse the highs.

- Threshold: defines the level from which the compressor starts reacting.

- Ratio: defines the compression level you want to apply, from 1 (no compression) to infinite (in this case, the compressor becomes a limiter).

- Attack: defines the speed at which the compression reacts once the threshold is reached.

- Release: defines the speed at which the compressor stops reacting once the volume level goes back below the threshold.

- Knee: defines whether the compression starts reacting precisely when the threshold is reached, or starts reacting gradually when the volume level comes close to the threshold.

- Gain: the more the sound is compressed, the lower the volume gets. To compensate for the volume loss due to compression, use the gain.

Multidynamics (the multiband compressor plugin that I use) has two gain knobs; lo-gain and hi-gain. Lo-gain is the gain that is applied to the sound signal when it is below the threshold, whereas hi-gain is the gain applied to the signal when it is above the threshold. The ratio determines the transition from one to the other.

To use Multidynamics like a compressor, lo-gain must be higher than hi-gain, which will reduce the signal gain when it gets over the threshold. If you do the opposite (hi-gain higher than lo-gain), the compressor becomes an expander, that is to say the opposite of a compressor. For now, we are looking forward to using the plugin as a compressor and not as an expander.

- Output: the overall output volume.
The Wave Arts multiband compressor Multidynamics can use from 3 to 6 bands. Here, I defined 4 frequency ranges (bands):
- From 0 to 50 Hz, for infra-basses
- From 50 to 175 Hz, for lows
- From 175 Hz to 2 KHz, for mediums
- From 2 to 20 KHz, for highs.

Why these specific frequencies? Because after various trials, I found this was the best setting for this song. Nothing magical about it. Trials, errors, more trials...

Settings used for the first frequency band (from 0 to 50 Hz):
- Lo-gain: 0 dB
- Threshold: -24 dB
- Hi-gain: -5 dB
- Ratio: 2
- Attack: 35 ms
- Release: 40 ms

Settings used for the second frequency band (from 50 to 175 Hz):
- Lo-gain: 6 dB
- Threshold: -21 dB
- Hi-gain: -8 dB
- Ratio: 2
- Attack: 16 ms
- Release: 25 ms

Settings used for the third frequency band (from 175 Hz to 2 KHz):
- Lo-gain: 3 dB
- Threshold: -21 dB
- Hi-gain: -6 dB
- Ratio: 2
- Attack: 5 ms
- Release: 10 ms

Settings used for the fourth frequency band (from 2 to 20 KHz):
- Lo-gain: 6 dB
- Threshold: -18 dB
- Hi-gain: -8 dB
- Ratio: 2
- Attack: 5 ms
- Release: 10 ms

Common settings for all bands:
- Knee: Medium
- Crossover slope: 30 dB/octave (behavior of transitions between frequency ranges)
- Lookahead: 5 ms (used to analyse sound peaks that can occur during play)
- Mode: Vintage

Here is the Master bus sound without any plugin:


(mp3 file)

Then the sound obtained with the multiband compressor Multidynamics:


(mp3 file)

Obviously, the multiband compressor allows for a much better sound clarity and all instruments find their place. Everything seems to breathe better, the sound is less confined, more open. Just better!

Wave Arts Multidynamics
Wave Arts Multidynamics is a commercial plugin. You may replace it with a free alternative plugin like 5orcery from Platinum Ears Plugins, a free 5 band compressor.

Download 5orcery
(5orcery.zip, 2.09 MB)

The zip file contains the PDF user manual, as well as a preset file named "5orcery_master.fxp". This is the preset I use for the song Life, and corresponds to the screenshot below.


With a free plugin...

I obtained a very similar result using the free multiband compressor 5orcery from Platinum Ears Plugins. Simpler than multidynamics, it offers all the settings you need. You get 5 frequency bands, you can manually choose the frequency that separates two bands, and each band has threshold, fain, attack and release knobs. The peak detection is achieved by selecting an RMS level for each band (RMS is an average level, similar to what the human ear can perceive), or the peaks (Pk). You can also activate or deactivate each band separately if you don't want to use all of them. You can adjust the Input signal, and you will find a Saturation knob, which does not add saturation, but is made to attenuate unexpected peaks. Finally, you have an overall Output level knob.

Using the settings shown on the screeshot above, I obtain a result pretty close to what I get with Multidynamics. It's a bit less accurate, a bit less defined, but it's definitely close.

Here is the sound I get with the multiband compressor 5orcery:


(mp3 file)
Platinum Ears Plugins - 5orcery
Platinum Ears Plugins - 5orcery
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LIMITER

We are one step away from the final result, and we are going to use a limiter. This is a tool that will boost the volume of a song, by raising up the volume from a defined threshold, up to a ceiling level you define manually. This is a great tool, but it can be damaging to the song. If you set a threshold too low, the sound is altered, it can become very aggressive, because the sound dynamics is crushed and everything will sound loud all the time. So, be gentle with it. With modern music (such as Dance or many Electronic musics), you can compress the signal much more than you would with musics that should have more constrast, where volume variations are desired and benefit the song, making it lively.

For the song Life, with the multiband compressor activated, the average RMS level is rather low, around -15 dB, with a dynamic range between -12 and -14 dB for the most part. This means we have quite a lot of margin, the dynamics is rather large, and we will be able to apply much compression without damaging the song, in order to raise the average level while maintaining good dynamics.

This is the dynamics we have before applying the limiter, measured with the plugin TT Dynamic Range Meter:
TT Dynamic Range Meter
In the top center, you can see the dynamic range at the moment the screenshot was made while playing the song (14.3 dB). At the bottom left and bottom right, you can see the average RMS level of the left and right channels (-16.3 dB and -15.6 dB).

Once the limiter is activated, we still have a dynamic margin between 9 and 11 dB. For your information, the album Nevermind by Nirvana, released in 1991, had a dynamic range of about 12 dB, as well as the album Wish You Were Here by Pink Floyd, released in 1975. The Fame Monster from Lady Gaga, released in 2009 has a dynamic range of 5 dB. Way more compressed!

The trend nowadays is to compress a lot, reducing the dynamic range as much as possible, which is bad for your ears and bad for musical finesse, but high compression levels allow for a high sound volume. It has been proved that a song is more attractive when played loudly, so record companies try to get the highest possible volume by compressing more and more. People are getting used to such high compression levels, they have become a standard and if you don't follow that trend, you may very well be looked down upon. Within a playlist, if the volume of a song is much lower than that of other songs, chances are the listener will just skip it, especially if they don't know it well and like it a lot. Yet, it would be so easy to simply raise the volume..

Here, the Wave Arts limiter FinalPlug is set with a threshold of -6 dB and a ceiling of -0.1 dB. This means that when the sound level reaches -6 dB, the signal will be boosted up to -0.1 dB. Release is set to Auto.
Here's the sound obtained with the limiter FinalPlug:


(mp3 file)
Wave Arts FinalPlug
Here is the dynamics measured after applying the limiter, at the same position in the song as the previous screenshot:
TT Dynamic Range Meter
As you can see, the RMS level goes from about -15 dB to about -9 dB, which corresponds to the 6 dB added with the limiter.
As for the dynamics range, it is reduced by about 3 dB, but we maintain around 10 dB.

Wave Arts FinalPlug is a commercial plugin. As an alternative, you may want to use the Classic Master Limiter from Kjaerhus.

Download Classic Master Limiter
(classic_master-limiter_v106.zip, 356 KB)


And with a free plugin...

Classic Master Limiter from Kjaerhus is a good limiter, very simple to use as there is only one knob. The only setting is the threshold. There is no ceiling setting, but it is in fact predefined to -0.2 dB. The sound obtained is slightly different from Wave Arts limiter's, but the difference is not that huge.
Here is the sound obtained with the Kjaerhus Classic Master Limiter:


(mp3 file)


Kjaerhus Classic Master Limiter
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CONCLUSION

Voilà... this tutorial is over. Mastering was the last stage.

From the begining, we went from...

a sound recorded in the box, with no effects:


(mp3 file)


We got to this version after mixing:


(mp3 file)


And obtained this final result after mastering:


(mp3 file)


Remember that this tutorial is not a magic formula that should be strictly followed all the time, with all songs of all genres. Mainly because it is not perfect, but also because there are many possible ways to mix a song to get various results. Finally, because each music, each song must be treated differently. Some plugins are useful for some songs and not for others, settings will need to change, etc.

I hope that with this tutorial, you understand better - if it wasn't already the case - how to mix a project, how to organize it, what is the purpose of the various plugins we used, how to set them, why you should use an EQ, a reverb, a compressor...

There are tons of other things to find out and learn, by yourself, with other people, through the Internet, this is a vast subject. Everyone has their habits, their hints and tips, but there's always more than one solution to a problem. Don't forget that the best way to improve your skills is to practice, again and again. So, experiment and have fun!!!

Mixing in practice : Preparing the session | Bass | Drums | Rhythm guitars | Solo guitars | Keyboards | Vocals | Mastering
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MESSAGES

(laisser un message)

Page de messages n° 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35



zico73
le 13/07/2011 à 21h29

Excellent site !!
J'ai beaucoup appris en lisant tout ceci.
Merci beaucoup !
Je vais essayer d'appliquer maintenant mais je pense que je reviendrai vers toi pour te poser quelques questions car il y a des choses que je n'ai pas bien saisies et qui méritent d’être éclaircies.
Bonne continuation. Musicalement,

Christophe

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<em>Content que ça puisse aider. À bientôt !

Grebz</em>



Ghis
le 16/06/2011 à 22h49

Hello !

C'est en cherchant un moyen d'utiliser mon ampli comme enceinte à relier à un ordi que j'ai trouvé ce site. Il m'a l'air très sympa et je le regarderai plus sérieusement pour faire des enregistrements moi-même (le pied !) plus tard.
Pour l'heure les études m’empêchent de m'y mettre à fond et l'on m'a confié la dure mission de résoudre un problème de sono pour une fête qui arrive début juillet (l'anniversaire de ma môman).

j'aurai donc juste une question (qui semblera insolente si la réponse se trouve bien évidemment sur ce site - mille excuses d'avance) : peut-on utiliser l'ampli (j'ai un Behringer V-amp combo) en simple baffle relié à un ordinateur tout bête à l'aide d'un simple câble. Et si oui... quel câble !!?

En remerciant d'avance pour la réponse et sinon bonne continuation.

Ghis

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<em>Bonjour et bienvenue,

A priori, tu devrais pouvoir y arriver en reliant la sortie casque de ton PC et une entrée auxiliaire sur ton ampli. En espérant qu'il y a bien une entrée "Aux" sur l'ampli. À l'arrière probablement. C'est sans doute une prise jack.

Il te faudrait idéalement un câble mini-jack stéréo / jack stéréo. (prise de type casque baladeur à un bout et gros jack à l'autre) MAIS on ne trouve que des câbles mini-jack stéréo vers double jack mono (un embout d'un côté, et deux embouts de l'autre), donc à moins d'avoir 2 entrées Aux Left et Right sur ton ampli, tu n'auras que la moitié du son.

Et honnêtement, je ne suis pas sûr que tu obtiennes un bon résultat. Les amplis guitare n'ont pas vraiment un son génial si tu y branches autre chose qu'une guitare. De la musique là-dedans, ça risque d'être assez moche.
Et si l'ampli est mono, la musique sortira en mono également. Un peu dommage si tu as prévu de faire danser les gens par exemple.

Bref, si tu as la prise qu'il faut sur ton ampli, c'est faisable, mais le résultat ne sera sans doute pas à la hauteur de tes espérances.

Il vaudrait mieux un ampli hifi et des enceintes hifi, bien sûr. Fais un essai. Un câble mini-jack / jack, ça doit coûter une poignée d'euros. Dans tous les cas, inutile de prendre un câble cher, un câble sans marque fera l'affaire, c'est pas de la haute fidélité.

Grebz</em>



LARYCRAFT
le 10/05/2011 à 04h39

Merci pour ce site très bien conçu, une mine d'or pour les maoistes en mal de conseils.

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

<em>Merci beaucoup !
Ouais, Mao et moi, on est comme les doigts de la main :-)

Grebz</em>



morgan75
le 07/05/2011 à 18h51

Rebonjour,

Je viens de prendre connaissance de ton message. Donc si j'ai bien compris, l'nterface audio M-Audio livrée avec ProTools sera suffisante pour enregistrer quelques pistes de guitare ?

Je te remercie de tes réponses.

Amicalement,

Morgan

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

<em>Oui, c'est bien ça. Le seul point négatif, c'est ProTools. Attention, ProTools est un outil connu et reconnu, je ne le dénigre pas du tout, mais je ne suis pas sûr qu'il sache utiliser de base (c'est à dire sans une extension spéciale, probablement payante) tous les plugins au format VST, comme ceux dont je parle sur mon site. Toutefois, je n'en suis pas certain, mais c'est un point à vérifier absolument.

Le format d'extension de ProTools, c'est le RTAS. Or, les RTAS gratuits sont bien moins répandus que les VST gratuits. C'est un point très important à considérer, à moins que tu ne sois prêt à dépenser pas mal d'argent en plugins.

Comme je l'ai dit, pour avoir un bon séquenceur pas cher, il y a <a href="http://www.reaper.fm/" target="_blank">Reaper</a> (40 dollars, soit moins de 30 euros), mais on peut le télécharger et l'utiliser 30 jours gratuitement. Après, l'utilisateur est prié de passer à la caisse, mais le logiciel continue d'être fonctionnel. À chacun de choisir de payer ou non, donc, mais si le logiciel convient, il est honnête de payer, surtout à ce prix-là. C'est à mon avis un bon choix. C'est en tout cas bien moins cher que Cubase ou Sonar.

Quoi qu'il en soit, la carte M-Audio, que tu te serves ou non de ProTools, est un bon choix. Il y a mieux, mais c'est plus cher et pas forcément utile pour commencer.

Bons enregistrements à toi !

Grebz</em>



morgan75
le 01/05/2011 à 16h10

Hey !

J'aimerais avoir un petit renseignement : comment relier mon ampli de guitare (marshall 15 watts mg fx ) à un ordi ? Faut-il un matériel spécial ? Je pensais à <a href="http://www.sonovente.com/m-audio-mobilepre-mkii-cartes-son-interfaces-p26091.htm" target="_blank">cela</a>, vendu avec le logiciel Protools ! Que faire ? Je souhaiterais enregistrer quelques morceaux... Merci de ton aide !
Cordialement,

Morgan

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<em>Bonjour,

L'équipement que tu indiques est une interface audio, c'est à dire une carte son. Mais ces interfaces audio, contrairement aux habituelles cartes son intégrées dans les PC, permettent d'obtenir une meilleure qualité de son, de diminuer la latence, et aussi de brancher des prises micro (format XLR) ou instruments (format jack). La latence, pour simplifier, c'est un retard qui se produit entre le moment où tu joues ta note sur un instrument, et le moment où tu l'entends dans les enceintes reliées à l'ordinateur. Cette latence est très gênante lors de l'enregistrement. Pour enregistrer une voix ou un instrument dans de bonnes conditions, une interface audio de qualité correcte est indispensable. J'en cite quelques-unes <a href="http://www.grebz.fr/musique_homestudio_tutorial_required_2.php#interface" target="_blank">ici</a>. M-Audio est plutôt une bonne marque, a priori, pas de souci.

Pour enregistrer une guitare,voilà ce qui tu as comme solutions :

1 - Enregistrer en direct : tu branches ton jack de guitare dans ton interface audio. L'interface contient un préampli de plus ou moins bonne qualité selon l'interface utilisée, qui permet d'amplifier le son à un niveau correct. Ou bien ajouter un <a href="http://www.grebz.fr/musique_homestudio_tutorial_required_2.php#preamp" target="_blank">préampli</a> entre la guitare et l'interface audio pour amplifier encore plus si besoin. Mais cela veut dire que tu n'utilises pas ton ampli de guitare, et donc que tu devras ajouter des simulateurs d'ampli dans ton séquenceur. L'avantage est que c'est moins bruyant qu'un ampli de guitare.

2 - Tu branches la sortie casque de ton ampli à l'interface audio (ou préampli + interface audio) et tu enregistres donc le son qui sort de la prise casque. Je ne sais pas si le son sera génial de cette manière, mais si tu as une prise casque, ça devrait marcher.

3 - Tu achètes un micro correct et tu le places devant ton ampli. Tu joues avec ton ampli et tu branches le micro sur l'interface audio (ou préampli + interface audio). Le micro va donc enregistrer ce que tu joues. À toi de bien placer ton micro pour obtenir le son désiré. L'emplacement est très important. Il suffit de bouger le micro de quelques centimètres pour obtenir un son différent. Tu peux d'ailleurs faire plusieurs prises en plaçant le micro différemment à chaque fois et obtenir un son plus riche en superposant les prises obtenues dans différentes pistes du séquenceur. Un bon micro pour commencer, pas trop cher pour enregistrer un ampli de guitare, c'est le <a href="http://www.grebz.fr/musique_homestudio_tutorial_required_2.php#microphone" target="_blank">Shure SM57</a>.

Enfin, pour le séquenceur, ProTools est un bon logiciel, très réputé (et que je n'aime pas trop à titre personnel, mais bon... on s'en fout). S'il est fourni (sans doute dans une version "light") avec l'interface audio, ça fait toujours ça de moins à acheter. Sinon, tu as Reaper, très bon logiciel pas très cher. Après, tu as Sonar ou Cubase, par exemple, qui fonctionnent tous sur les mêmes principes, mais ces logiciels ne sont pas donnés.

Grebz</em>

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